Billy Weathers creates room to belong
For anyone still surprised to see Iowa on a national culinary stage, allow Billy Weathers and The Contrary to continually exceed what’s expected and what’s possible for the state’s food and drink scene. As a part of Iowa’s breakthrough moment, where five chefs, owners and culinary talents from across the state were named James Beard Awards semifinalists, Even among its Beard-nodded peers, The Contrary stands out as unique in all the best ways: it’s got a sophisticated level of cool, an eye for ambiance and an ear for music that all come down to Billy’s impeccable taste and pulse on what was missing from the scene.
That void has since been filled with all of the vibes that The Contrary has to offer. Des Moines’ East Village has a bustling, creative hospitality scene, and Billy is one of the people helping to not only push it forward but break down the walls that might have held others back in the past. https://www.instagram.com/thecontrarydsm/?hl=enBilly has built the kind of place that reflects what’s possible here with ingredients that aren’t a part of dishes or drinks: original ideas, loyal community support and room for people to come as they are.
“I think creating a space where people can show up as their authentic self is huge here,” Billy said. “That’s the greatest compliment, is people feel like they can just unwind.”
BUILDING A PLACE TO BELONG
For Billy, hospitality is not about performance or perfection. It’s about making anyone and everyone feel comfortable, seen and at home from the moment they walk in.
“They could go anywhere, and they chose us,” Billy said. “So making sure that they feel welcomed and they feel appreciated for spending their time and their money and their energy with you … I think it’s huge.”
That mission carries extra meaning for Billy as a Black business owner in Des Moines. He spoke openly about the responsibility he feels to create an elevated space where people who look like him feel comfortable, represented and proud to gather.
That work comes with pressure, but also purpose. Having grown up watching his mom’s purpose-driven work with the American Red Cross, Billy knows first-hand that once you are given the chance to build something meaningful, you have to take care of it. “To slow up, it’s almost like you’re disrespecting your gift,” Billy said. “Honor your gift. This is a gift. Take care of this.”
At The Contrary, honoring the gift means protecting the feeling of the room, trusting the team and creating an environment where other people can succeed, too. His advice to other young chefs, creatives and business owners looking to build something in Iowa is to recognize talent, lean on your people and give them room to win.
And guess what? Des Moines has.
THE ENERGY YOU HAVE TO FEEL
Sometimes, the simplest compliments are the most meaningful ones. They get at the whole purpose of what you were trying to accomplish. So when someone told Billy five simple words — “It feels good in here” — he knew The Contrary was doing what it sought out to do.
“I love that we’ve created a space where people have to come and get that energy,” Billy said. “You can’t duplicate it. You can’t put it in the glass. You can’t sell it. You have to come here. You have to be a part of it.”
Billy knows that The Contrary is not a solo act, but a collaboration with Iowa’s creative minds. A musician himself, Billy is quick to acknowledge that just like some of his favorite artists (Lauryn Hill and Tyler, the Creator to name a few), while their names are on the cover, there’s a team behind it all that makes the magic come to life.
“It’s far from a one-man show. It’s far from a one-woman show,” he said. “We have a very, very, very talented and cool collective of people that all make this place shake.”
FROM CONCEPT TO CONTRARY
The Contrary feels rooted in Des Moines because Billy believes Des Moines is worth investing in.
“Des Moines deserves cool things,” he said. “We have a responsibility as those that inhabit this city, call it home, to take care of it — not just exist in it.”
That sense of responsibility is part of what makes Iowa a place where people can build something deeply personal. The Contrary grew from that dream. to create something lasting and is a culmination of everything Billy has done over the last decade. He wanted a place where he and his friends would feel comfortable, but also one that felt like a natural next step for the city itself, something that Des Moines deserved and needed.
In true contrarian fashion, The Contrary didn’t open with a heavy advertising push or publicity stunts. Instead, Billy and team trusted that their taste and that the experience would speak for themselves.
“If it’s good enough, you’ll tell your people,” he said. “The city will take care of it.”
